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paul cowen
11-01-2008, 09:41 PM
what will happen if i used 1.2k amp with 1,6 k speakers

kilmeedyman
11-01-2008, 09:46 PM
What do you mean "what will happen"

Can't see any reason why you shouldn't, if that's what you mean, after all both are maximums (output and input/power handling)

Danno13
11-01-2008, 10:04 PM
Nothing, unless you plug a mixer and sound source into the amp. :D

colint
11-01-2008, 10:53 PM
it would be very loud! :rolleyes:

A1DL
11-01-2008, 11:04 PM
a few assumptions here - I guess you may mean a 2 channel 600wrms/ch at 4R amp and a pair of 800wrms 4R speakers (or 2x400wrms 8R per side giving a 4R load) .....

if so, although the amplifier is on the smaller side for the cabs, provided you don't redline the mixer and clip the amplifier, the system should work ok for "normal" use, however you won't be able to rinse the system.

Excalibur
11-01-2008, 11:25 PM
what will happen if i used 1.2k amp with 1,6 k speakers

Right, since the serious answers have started to filter through, may I point out that this topic has been aired very extensively very recently, usually resulting in one or more members believing that their earnestly held beliefs are the only true answer, and that all those who disagree are impugning their integrity as professionals, and their only course is to leave this den of iniquity forthwith!:eek: :eek: :eek: :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:

For the umpty third time, I will set out the three firmly held creeds of amp/speaker matching. I know I've done this less than a week ago, please. please,please can some people learn how to use the search facility?:bang:

1: Speakers twice rating of amp so that you can't blow the speakers up. Except if you get an amp that really is too small, you'll overdrive it, and something somewhere will go bang, cos all the red lights are on like traffic lights.

2: Both equal. It must make sense, musn't it? If everything is the same rating, it matches. Hard to fault this logic.

3: Amp twice speaker rating. Theory is that since there is a fundamental inequality in the ratings of amps and speakers, this is the most balanced set up. and as long as you keep the amp signal down, it will run for ever at threequarter throttle, feeding a beautiful clean signal to your speakers, which in turn will sound lovely, and last forever.

I've got to turn this into a sticky, or at least a word document!
There you are, you pays your money, and you takes your choice. There are I know people on here in each camp, I'm not saying which you should follow, I hope I have set out some of the pros and cons of each. I lean towards three, but not with a religious zeal. I have blown gear up using all three theories, so the only hting to remember above all else is to keep all indicators of signal level green, and not to run any part of the system at absolutely max level.

More drink, and bed beckon now.;) :D

Corabar Steve
12-01-2008, 09:56 AM
I've got to turn this into a sticky, or at least a word document!
There you are, you pays your money, and you takes your choice. There are I know people on here in each camp, I'm not saying which you should follow, I hope I have set out some of the pros and cons of each. I lean towards three, but not with a religious zeal. I have blown gear up using all three theories, so the only hting to remember above all else is to keep all indicators of signal level green, and not to run any part of the system at absolutely max level.
'Tis now stuck.

I think all options are covered below (unless anyone thinks different)

1: Speakers twice rating of amp so that you can't blow the speakers up. Except if you get an amp that really is too small, you'll overdrive it, and something somewhere will go bang, cos all the red lights are on like traffic lights.

2: Both equal. It must make sense, musn't it? If everything is the same rating, it matches. Hard to fault this logic.

3: Amp twice speaker rating. Theory is that since there is a fundamental inequality in the ratings of amps and speakers, this is the most balanced set up. and as long as you keep the amp signal down, it will run for ever at threequarter throttle, feeding a beautiful clean signal to your speakers, which in turn will sound lovely, and last forever.

nigelwright7557
24-01-2008, 01:21 PM
I have blown gear up using all three theories, so the only thing to remember above all else is to keep all indicators of signal level green, and not to run any part of the system at absolutely max level.


I have never blown up any gear, ever !

I use a 600 watts RMS amp with 1000 watts RMS of speakers.
I can completely thottle the amp and it just distorts if driven too hard.
Thats becasue the power supply has run out of steam.
In fact I like the sound that MOSFETS give when overdriven.
Its a much rawer sound a bit like the valve guitar amps that are so popular for their overdriven sound.

Why has it never blown up ?
Coz I designed and built it myself not to blow up.
No corners were cut in the design unlike a lot of pro gear which is built down to a price.

colint
24-01-2008, 06:45 PM
From the above post from Nigel:
I use a 600 watts RMS amp with 1000 watts RMS of speakers.
I can completely thottle the amp and it just distorts if driven too hard.
Thats becasue the power supply has run out of steam.
In fact I like the sound that MOSFETS give when overdriven.
Its a much rawer sound a bit like the valve guitar amps that are so popular for their overdriven sound.
Why has it never blown up ?
Coz I designed and built it myself not to blow up.
No corners were cut in the design unlike a lot of pro gear which is built down to a price.[/QUOTE]


Right?

It's very unlike you to contradict yourself Nigel?
in close on 30 years of working with sound I have never met (or would like to meet) an "Engineer" that would make a statement like the above I bet it sounds real Dandy for your clients!

nigelwright7557
24-01-2008, 07:44 PM
From the above post from Nigel:
I use a 600 watts RMS amp with 1000 watts RMS of speakers.
I can completely thottle the amp and it just distorts if driven too hard.
Thats becasue the power supply has run out of steam.
In fact I like the sound that MOSFETS give when overdriven.
Its a much rawer sound a bit like the valve guitar amps that are so popular for their overdriven sound.
Why has it never blown up ?
Coz I designed and built it myself not to blow up.
No corners were cut in the design unlike a lot of pro gear which is built down to a price.


Right?

It's very unlike you to contradict yourself Nigel?
in close on 30 years of working with sound I have never met (or would like to meet) an "Engineer" that would make a statement like the above I bet it sounds real Dandy for your clients![/QUOTE]

nigelwright7557
24-01-2008, 07:53 PM
All amps run out steam eventually.
The difference is mine wait until they hit the rated power output before they do !

sleah
24-01-2008, 07:57 PM
Quote from Mendoza (quote won't work)
"The speakers wont have enough power and therefore wont get maximum output. Just like driving a Farari and having just 3 gears, your not feeding the motor with enough power."

Not untrue, but there's no law saying if you have 1.6k of speakers you absolutely have to drive them AT 1.6k!

1.2k is actually quite loud anyway, so it may be it is more than adequate for the gigs Paul will be doing. Maybe he just liked the sound/look/cost of the 1.6k ones.:cool:

nigelwright7557
24-01-2008, 08:03 PM
I aqm sat tonight listening to disco in my living room using a 600w amp and 100w of speakers.
Due to the size of the room I am probably using no more than a few watts but it sounds loud.

If you put too many watts into a speaker the voice coil wire overheats, melts the insulation and shorts all the coil turns together.

I have worked in a audio repair work shop and seen it louds of times.

Keep using 1.6 KW of speakers with 1.4KW amp and you shouldnt have any problems.

The only time it might become an issue if you loaded the amp with too low an impedance.

sleah
24-01-2008, 08:17 PM
If you put too many watts into a speaker the voice coil wire overheats, melts the insulation and shorts all the coil turns together.

I have worked in a audio repair work shop and seen it louds of times.

Keep using 1.6 KW of speakers with 1.4KW amp and you shouldnt have any problems.

The only time it might become an issue if you loaded the amp with too low an impedance.

Mmm... that crunchy sound of moulten coil:D
Good sound too:D :D :D :p

BTW I agree, as if you hadn't have guessed!

Tom
19-02-2008, 08:53 PM
I have blown gear up using all three theories


I have never blown up any gear, ever !





Huh :confused:

dave stanson
22-02-2008, 11:07 AM
hi paul
all good advice here,take thier tips & you won't go far wrong. i'd like to add a tip, you may already know this.if you realy want high power & good quality sound, then let's say you want 3000 watts then ( if you got the funds ) buy 3 x 1000 w amps slaved together & run them at just over half power.obviously with the right amount of speaker power, results are crisp, clear, great powerful sound. i've never tried this, but have heard such a system working. sounds superb. i also don't know the maths of such system i.e watts / ohms formula, ask these guys they certainly know what's what.
where did i hear this system ?, at a night club in essex , a huge celebrity dj was making a guest appearence there with his own roadshow ( he had only a quater of his full power of 6000 watts ) , his name, my idol dj the best ever,
THE EMPEROR ROSKO ROAD SHOW. he's on the web, visit his site. i'm sure you'll be impressed. good luck paul. kindest regards always. THE DUKE.

Richard Veal
21-03-2008, 01:41 AM
To quote one manufacturer,
Most speakers will show 3 ratings cont rms, program & peak rms
its is usually belived to run an amp the size of the middle figure.
Something to do with music using continually varied frequencies as apposed to one continuous note/sound.

Before anyone shouts i didn't say this only what i've heard and so far its seen me right.

rob1963
21-03-2008, 01:39 PM
To quote one manufacturer,
Most speakers will show 3 ratings cont rms, program & peak rms
its is usually belived to run an amp the size of the middle figure.
Something to do with music using continually varied frequencies as apposed to one continuous note/sound.

Before anyone shouts i didn't say this only what i've heard and so far its seen me right.

I agree.

The rms rating relates to a constant tone, which is not what we put through them, and peak ratings are meaningless figures used to make it look as though the speakers can handle a lot more than they actually can.

However, I've always understood that the "program" rating relates to "music power" which is what we are using them for, and is therefore the best rating guide for our purposes.

nigelwright7557
18-05-2008, 08:35 PM
"Thats becasue the power supply has run out of steam."

That is one of the corners not cut in the design.

Clearly a cut off point has to come with power somewhere and for me that was to work with my set of speakers without frying them !
Thats not cutting a corner thats just good design......

Corabar Steve
19-05-2008, 08:08 AM
Of course it is, don't you build your own equipment?

nigelwright7557
19-05-2008, 10:23 AM
Of course it is, don't you build your own equipment?

Yes I do.

My current build is a 1000watts RMS amplifier.

Tom
19-05-2008, 04:46 PM
Do you have any pictures of this amp???

nigelwright7557
19-05-2008, 04:48 PM
Do you have any pictures of this amp???

Sorry no.

Tom
19-05-2008, 04:55 PM
Is it possible for you to take one???

nigelwright7557
19-05-2008, 04:57 PM
Is it possible for you to take one???

Its at the breadboard stage at the moment so is just a rats nest of wires.

I might pop a picture up when its finished.

Not quite sure what a pictrue will tell you, its the performance that is the important thing not the box it is in.............

nigelwright7557
09-10-2008, 11:11 PM
From the above post from Nigel:
I use a 600 watts RMS amp with 1000 watts RMS of speakers.
I can completely thottle the amp and it just distorts if driven too hard.
Thats becasue the power supply has run out of steam.
In fact I like the sound that MOSFETS give when overdriven.
Its a much rawer sound a bit like the valve guitar amps that are so popular for their overdriven sound.
Why has it never blown up ?
Coz I designed and built it myself not to blow up.
No corners were cut in the design unlike a lot of pro gear which is built down to a price.


You need to take into account I am not just a DJ but also a guitarist too.
Clipping for a disco is a big no no.
Overdriving for a guitarist is very welcome.
Hence my system is designed for both.

Even my valve mixer is designed for both. Two stereo channels for CD players, a mic input and a high gain input for my electric guitar.

colint
10-10-2008, 09:47 PM
Hello Nigel I must admit I was a little supprised at your reply being as the post was so long ago?
it has been quite a while since I have logged on to MDD! (for my own reasons)
what supprises me even more is your vast aray of talent's Dj, electronics engineer, software designer, carer the list is endless!
is there any chance that we could see some of this equipment you have built/designed, being "in the sound trade" for over 35 years I would be very interested in seeing some of your equipment?

Edit, sorry I forgot guitarist

nigelwright7557
10-10-2008, 09:53 PM
Hello Nigel I must admit I was a little supprised at your reply being as the post was so long ago?
it has been quite a while since I have logged on to MDD! (for my own reasons)
what supprises me even more is your vast aray of talent's Dj, electronics engineer, software designer, carer the list is endless!
is there any chance that we could see some of this equipment you have built/designed, being "in the sound trade" for over 35 years I would be very interested in seeing some of your equipment?

I dont really want to start taking equipment apart to take photos.
The amps are in PC cases to use the power sockets and fan mountings etc.
My mixer is just a metal box with a valve mounted on the top.
The speakers are just front loaded speakers and look like any other you can buy.

My background is in electronic design, I was a design consultant for many years and also a Chief engineer with an electronics company. During that time I not only designed electronic systems but also wrote stacks of software.
As well as designing my own amps, mixers and speaker boxes I also write and sell software for designing printed circuit boards. See: www.murtonpikesystems.co.uk

colint
10-10-2008, 10:12 PM
I dont really want to start taking equipment apart to take photos.
The amps are in PC cases to use the power sockets and fan mountings etc.
My mixer is just a metal box with a valve mounted on the top.
The speakers are just front loaded speakers and look like any other you can buy.

My background is in electronic design, I was a design consultant for many years and also a Chief engineer with an electronics company. During that time I not only designed electronic systems but also wrote stacks of software.
As well as designing my own amps, mixers and speaker boxes I also write and sell software for designing printed circuit boards. See: www.murtonpikesystems.co.uk


Forgive me for pointing it out, but the speaker in your avitar (that you say you designed) is a bandpass box not a front loaded cab, you seem to be very reluctant to show anyone on MDD the work you are so proud of? could there be a reason for this?
the first amplifier I put together was a 10 watt per channel stereo unit that was total tosh! but I was so proud of it I still have it today (it 35 years old) it still works (just) and is a mass or wires and componants, but in a small neat metal box, almost everyone that has entered my workshop has been shown this sad little amp because it was my first attempt (and last) at electronic's
I find it a little strange you are so reluctant to show of your work in an industry where most of us are "show off's"

nigelwright7557
10-10-2008, 10:24 PM
I find it a little strange you are so reluctant to show of your work in an industry where most of us are "show off's"

You will find some of my own gear here:

http://www.ckp-railways.talktalk.net/proof.htm

Most of the speaker boxes parts are from Maplin like grill, corners etc.

The PC enclosures are off ebay second hand.

The valve mixer parts are mostly from Maplin.
The ECC83 valve is courtesy of RS components.

I have 7 self build loudspeaker boxes and 3 home mande amps.

colint
10-10-2008, 10:26 PM
Just to put my money where my mouth is.....

colint
10-10-2008, 10:32 PM
You will find some of my own gear here:

http://www.ckp-railways.talktalk.net/proof.htm

That wasn't that hard was it?
Nigel please don't ever think I'm putting you down!!!! I have the utmost respect for anyone that is prepared to attempt to build their own equipment and try to break from the norm..... I must admit though make a better case for your amp! or you can buy them for a few quid "think RS componants do them in 19" rack mount" I made my own but it took me weeks, but I was young and stupid then! and I dont do elecrtonics now too bloody fiddly!

nigelwright7557
10-10-2008, 10:36 PM
That wasn't that hard was it?
Nigel please don't ever think I'm putting you down!!!! I have the utmost respect for anyone that is prepared to attempt to build their own equipment and try to break from the norm..... I must admit though make a better case for your amp! or you can buy them for a few quid "think RS componants do them in 19" rack mount" I made my own but it took me weeks, but I was young and stupid then! and I dont do elecrtonics now too bloody fiddly!

I use PC cases partly out of laziness.
They are useful for the number of ready made fan mountings.
The PC case is also big enough to get a really hefty heatsink inside.
I usually strip out the power supply and leave the mains socket to connect my amp to.

To get an enclosure from RS the same size as the PC case would be quite a price. I can get a PC case for less than £20 off ebay. I like the desktop PC cases best as I can sit a mixer on top of it.

I like to build my own amps for a few reasons.
If I designed it then I have the circuit diagrams to fix it.
I can also over spec the heatsinking and fans.

colint
10-10-2008, 10:43 PM
I use PC cases partly out of laziness.
They are useful for the number of ready made fan mountings.
The PC case is also big enough to get a really hefty heatsink inside.
I usually strip out the power supply and leave the mains socket to connect my amp to.

To get an enclosure from RS the same size as the PC case would be quite a price. I can get a PC case for less than £20 off ebay. I like the desktop PC cases best as I can sit a mixer on top of it.

Nigel! we need to get you up to date! get yourself a nice rack case (and for the mixer) and rack mount all your kit? it's so much better and looks the part too! wouldn't cost much easier to set up and would look more pro too!

DJMaxG
07-04-2009, 12:42 PM
Without going into numbers, Too little or too much wattage could blow the drivers and horns.

It is best to have an amplifier and speakers of the same wattage, or if you're using 300 watts @ 8 ohms, buy an amp which is 1300 watts @ 4 ohms.

The other solution of course if to use an Active system, by having each cabinet self powered, you eliminate the chance of blowing anything, as the amplifier has been designed specificly for that speaker in question.

Excalibur
07-04-2009, 01:11 PM
Without going into numbers, Too little or too much wattage could blow the drivers and horns.

It is best to have an amplifier and speakers of the same wattage, or if you're using 300 watts @ 8 ohms, buy an amp which is 1300 watts @ 4 ohms.

The other solution of course if to use an Active system, by having each cabinet self powered, you eliminate the chance of blowing anything, as the amplifier has been designed specificly for that speaker in question.

Tell Twinspin that then. He obviously didn't need to have his RCF's repaired, as according to you they must have still been OK. :confused: :confused:

Solitaire Events Ltd
25-04-2009, 12:20 PM
The guy at DFB Sound and Light told me the same, they are supposedly less reliable.

Must be true then...

As long as we have facts and figures too back up this latest nugget as we normally do from you.

Excalibur
25-04-2009, 12:22 PM
Without going into numbers, Too little or too much wattage could blow the drivers and horns.

It is best to have an amplifier and speakers of the same wattage, or if you're using 300 watts @ 8 ohms, buy an amp which is 1300 watts @ 4 ohms.

The other solution of course if to use an Active system, by having each cabinet self powered, you eliminate the chance of blowing anything, as the amplifier has been designed specificly for that speaker in question.


They can still malfunction, be overpowered if reaches the clip point.
I know someone with RCF's and they have been in for repair before.

Another DJs Active Wharfedales both packed in. It was the crossover on one, not sure about the other. It must be a thing with Active speakers, can easily go faulty. The guy at DFB Sound and Light told me the same, they are supposedly less reliable.

Is it just me, or is there a slight difference of opinion between these two posts from the same person? :confused: :confused: It really is very difficult for an old DJ of very little brain. :( :(

colint
25-04-2009, 05:24 PM
Without going into numbers, Too little or too much wattage could blow the drivers and horns.

It is best to have an amplifier and speakers of the same wattage, or if you're using 300 watts @ 8 ohms, buy an amp which is 1300 watts @ 4 ohms.

The other solution of course if to use an Active system, by having each cabinet self powered, you eliminate the chance of blowing anything, as the amplifier has been designed specificly for that speaker in question.

I think someone may have been at the cooking sherry!

if you used use a 1300 watt amp on a pair of 300watt speakers the inevitable will happen (fried drivers) on a 1000 watt driver maybe? but not 300watts

using an active system make's no diference drive it into clip and bye bye drivers!
as has been discussed on many other posts, there is no problem what so ever in using a small amp on larger powered speakers as long as you don't clip the amp,
A simple rule: red means stop!!!! if you see a red light it's time to back off
not hard really is it? and that also goes for mixers, crossover's, and anything else in the sound chain

Excalibur
25-04-2009, 05:53 PM
A simple rule: red means stop!!!! if you see a red light it's time to back off
not hard really is it? and that also goes for mixers, crossover's, and anything else in the sound chain

;) :flog: ;)

colint
25-04-2009, 06:00 PM
;) :flog: ;)

Ain't it just?

CRAZY K
26-04-2009, 09:56 AM
I think someone may have been at the cooking sherry!

if you used use a 1300 watt amp on a pair of 300watt speakers the inevitable will happen (fried drivers) on a 1000 watt driver maybe? but not 300watts

using an active system make's no diference drive it into clip and bye bye drivers!
as has been discussed on many other posts, there is no problem what so ever in using a small amp on larger powered speakers as long as you don't clip the amp,
A simple rule: red means stop!!!! if you see a red light it's time to back off
not hard really is it? and that also goes for mixers, crossover's, and anything else in the sound chain

Colin, I have a lot of problems with red lights every time I play at louder gigs using bass bins.

They come on despite my best efforts to make adjustments and if I cut back on the eq to try and cut it out I would have a totally flat non dynamic sound, so I might as well pack up and go home if I cant get the sound I like---never mind the punters.

I do have a manufacturers matched system ---speakers/ powered amp.

It never sounds distorted despite the red lights.

Yes I stand in front of the speakers a lot of the night so I know whats going on.

I havent managed to blow any of the drivers or horns in 4.5 years of this ritual "abuse", and of course on the older amps you didnt have the benefit of the warning lights---distortion told you a lot though.

Do you think this business of worrying about the red lights is a bit overdone--seeing as my speakers are still going loud and strong--plus ive bounced them a few times off the trolley:eek:

Even the makers warned me when I went for a demo--as an old fashioned Entertainer going back to the days of valve amps I cant remember much in the way of speaker failures--horn unit after 20 years --I can live with that--and a driver in a Skytec cab--what do I expect:D

I always bought what I considered reliable speaker makes like Goodmans and Celestion and more recently Peavey and Eminence, I made a mistake buying the Skytecs but I changed the horns and introduced a crossover which transformed them into an acceptable quality for very small jobs.

Am I just lucky ( again ) ;)

1300 watts into two 300 watts--now that sounds like an accident waiting to happen;)


CRAZY K

colint
26-04-2009, 10:50 AM
Colin, I have a lot of problems with red lights every time I play at louder gigs using bass bins.

They come on despite my best efforts to make adjustments and if I cut back on the eq to try and cut it out I would have a totally flat non dynamic sound, so I might as well pack up and go home if I cant get the sound I like---never mind the punters.

I do have a manufacturers matched system ---speakers/ powered amp.

It never sounds distorted despite the red lights.

Yes I stand in front of the speakers a lot of the night so I know whats going on.

I havent managed to blow any of the drivers or horns in 4.5 years of this ritual "abuse", and of course on the older amps you didnt have the benefit of the warning lights---distortion told you a lot though.

Do you think this business of worrying about the red lights is a bit overdone--seeing as my speakers are still going loud and strong--plus ive bounced them a few times off the trolley:eek:

Even the makers warned me when I went for a demo--as an old fashioned Entertainer going back to the days of valve amps I cant remember much in the way of speaker failures--horn unit after 20 years --I can live with that--and a driver in a Skytec cab--what do I expect:D

I always bought what I considered reliable speaker makes like Goodmans and Celestion and more recently Peavey and Eminence, I made a mistake buying the Skytecs but I changed the horns and introduced a crossover which transformed them into an acceptable quality for very small jobs.

Am I just lucky ( again ) ;)

1300 watts into two 300 watts--now that sounds like an accident waiting to happen;)


CRAZY K

Yes very lucky, but your not alone and many people copy you,
you are of course right about the earlier amp's with no indication at all and most of us used distortion as the limit.
but as thing have moved on so much and power has increased so much (I started with a 50watt mono amp) the danger to distroy equipment has also increased with it!.
about the not being happy with the sound quality, I've been on a quest for the last 30 odd years to get the sound how I like and dispite having systems from Martin Audio, A.S.S, EV and JBL (the largest being 20k of A.S.S) I'm still trying to get it "right"
I now self build my speaker systems and although I'm getting closer (I'm happy with mid/high) I still have a long way to get the bass right dispite having tried many designs.
what I can tell you is I found the more equipment in the signal chain the more chance of distortion/clipping, so my signal now comes from my soundcraft d-mix into the crossover and then into the amps with nothing else in between, give it a try you'll be supprised how much better it sounds?

to be really honist and blunt if your system is clipping most of the time you need to go bigger, because even if you are getting away with it? it's not good to drive you gear flat out all the time, sooner or later somethings going to give way and it will always do it when you have 2-300 punters in front of you! it aint nice?

Edit: sorry if the spellings a bit off had a birthday party last night and still a bit wobbly

CRAZY K
26-04-2009, 12:31 PM
Yes very lucky, but your not alone and many people copy you,
you are of course right about the earlier amp's with no indication at all and most of us used distortion as the limit.
but as thing have moved on so much and power has increased so much (I started with a 50watt mono amp) the danger to distroy equipment has also increased with it!.
about the not being happy with the sound quality, I've been on a quest for the last 30 odd years to get the sound how I like and dispite having systems from Martin Audio, A.S.S, EV and JBL (the largest being 20k of A.S.S) I'm still trying to get it "right"
I now self build my speaker systems and although I'm getting closer (I'm happy with mid/high) I still have a long way to get the bass right dispite having tried many designs.
what I can tell you is I found the more equipment in the signal chain the more chance of distortion/clipping, so my signal now comes from my soundcraft d-mix into the crossover and then into the amps with nothing else in between, give it a try you'll be supprised how much better it sounds?

to be really honist and blunt if your system is clipping most of the time you need to go bigger, because even if you are getting away with it? it's not good to drive you gear flat out all the time, sooner or later somethings going to give way and it will always do it when you have 2-300 punters in front of you! it aint nice?

Edit: sorry if the spellings a bit off had a birthday party last night and still a bit wobbly

Thanks I will certainly try to limit the red more in future---I have a standard set up with built in x over so I cant do much to modify things---

CRAZY K

Tony Scott
26-04-2009, 05:43 PM
.....I have a lot of problems with red lights every time I play at louder gigs using bass bins.

They come on despite my best efforts to make adjustments and if I cut back on the eq to try and cut it out I would have a totally flat non dynamic sound, so I might as well pack up and go home if I cant get the sound I like---never mind the punters.....

.......It never sounds distorted despite the red lights.

.....Yes I stand in front of the speakers a lot of the night so I know whats going on.



Don't forget that a clip light can be triggered by over-driving the input as well as the output of an amp, if your mixer is putting out too high a signal it will cause the input stage of your amp to clip.

Keep your signal path clean, this will give great benefits.......my signal path never goes above -3db, clean and undistorted all the way!! :)

BeerFunk
26-04-2009, 06:05 PM
You should NEVER turn a speaker or amplifier on full (meaning use it on full)

I would always have excess wattage just incase.
I have recently found out that underpowering a speaker can blow it, but this isn't as common as overpowering.I don't agree, I've ran amps at 75-100% for years and controlled the volume with the mixer, and never had a problem. You will risk a speaker blowing if you send a distorted or clipped signal to it.

CRAZY K
26-04-2009, 07:42 PM
1300 watts is @ 4 ohms.
300 watts is @ 8 ohms

You should NEVER turn a speaker or amplifier on full (meaning use it on full)

I would always have excess wattage just incase.
I have recently found out that underpowering a speaker can blow it, but this isn't as common as overpowering.

Active Speakers are a good idea, as you don't have to struggle to get the figures right. The Crown XTI and Itech range of Amplifiers can be limited etc, all it takes is a simple USB connection, and using the software provided, it can be done.



Eh?:confused:

I dont understand most of these comments.
̉̀̀̀̀̀
Im pleased to say I havent blown any speakers.

The maximum wattage rms produced at different resistances by the amp is stated by the the amplifiers manufacturer-so it will be stated by the manufacturer to be for example 500 watts at 4ohms or 360 watts at 8ohms which mine is.

I have already stated before--I dont think its correct to say either that you must run the amp at maximum (agree with Beerfunk) or that Actives are better than Passive for matching purposes--my Passive kit is matched by the manufacturer as regards resistance and output levels--only people who buy mixed kit---like different makes of speaker, amp and xover have to make sure they all match--I dont because I bought my four speaker PA and powered amp as a professional package.

I agree with Tony Scott--you need to keep the front end mixer input level down to limit red lighting--I get a bit lazy--if it sounds good and theres no distortion I tend to not bother--which is not good:(

Im also probably half way through explaining a Barn or Line Dance when I first
notice it--shouting down the mike is the biggest culprit---I do a fair bit of that:D :D :D

CRAZY K

johnwiliam5946
17-09-2016, 12:30 PM
I hope it's not the correct way to use this type of speakers 1.2 k with 1,6. unless you plug a mixer and sound source into the amp

Excalibur
17-09-2016, 01:12 PM
I hope it's not the correct way to use this type of speakers 1.2 k with 1,6. unless you plug a mixer and sound source into the amp

I hope you'll pop across to the Newbies section, and tell us a little about yourself. Please. :)