Messenger pro

[CRAZY K]

Quite right Darren. The can of worms opens yet again, and I have to say if using the "Amp Double Speaker RMS" ploy, do resist the urge to turn all dials to eleven and run with the red lights flashing.

Alan, you obviously know your system well, and don't overdrive your amp. Fair enough, if it aint broke, don't fix it! The idea of a bigger amp is to allow you to run it with a little more capacity for transient peaks, without running out of steam. There are, as posted in a sticky on this subject, three schools of thought regarding matching amps to speakers, and whichever route you choose, it's still possible to break something if you try hard enough!

Excalibur Mobile Discotheques deny all liability for any damage caused to PA systems due to following this advice.

Yes guys I do see the point that if you have a bigger amp you dont drive it so hard in terms of percentage of available output--

The problem is if you accidentally over drive it I guess--like some clever ....
suddenly turns the volume up when you are not looking--it has happened I believe to Dave ( Dragonfly) and to me also at a school event--the offender was very lucky he didnt blow my speakers

CRAZY K

[A1DL]

When I visited Peavey Corby HQ they recommended my XR800F amp 500watts RMS per side into 4 Ohms feeding 2 Pro Subs and 2 Pro 15 tops which had a combined RMS rating of 1000 watts. Thats amp and speakers the same!

Ive not heard of having a bigger output at the amp compared to speaker handling. if thats what you are saying.

CRAZY K

Alan, that's like having a car with a top speed of 70mph.

When driving on motorways it will always be at full throttle, and when you need 85mph for 10 seconds to overtake, you're out of luck.

Also, how long will the engine last if it is always being pushed to its 70mph limit for hours of motorway driving?

Tony

[One Vision]

Hya fellas I also post the original question to Peavey, although they are always going to recommend their own amps, you guys are spot on.

Hi Karl,

There are two options in power amps. If you use it for live music, bands, you can use the PV2600 power amp. If you use it for DJ-ing the best way is to use a PV1500.
Because there is a built in x over you will run into 4 Ohms. You can run the system with 1 amp. By bi-amping the system will give you more low end and better response.

Best regards,

Jeroen de Slegte
Peavey Electonics Ltd &
Trace Elliot
UK & Benelux sales &
Customer Service.
www.peavey-eu.com
+44 1536 424611

Yes guys I do see the point that if you have a bigger amp you dont drive it so hard in terms of percentage of available output--

The problem is if you accidentally over drive it I guess--like some clever ....
suddenly turns the volume up when you are not looking--it has happened I believe to Dave ( Dragonfly) and to me also at a school event--the offender was very lucky he didnt blow my speakers

CRAZY K

Hya Crazy if I have it right here this is why you either need an amp with a limiter fitted or by using a separate limiter so to protect against sudden power surges.

The T-AMP have them fitted.

[CRAZY K]

Hya fellas I also post the original question to Peavey, although they are always going to recommend their own amps, you guys are spot on.

Just spoke to James 01536 461234 Peavey Corby (Little Scotland) who has no idea why you would consider a PV 2600 for Band work

He thinks the PV 1500 would be fine for you ( pushed hard when necessary) long as you dont get to clipping.

Dont forget that only pushes out 500 watts RMS a side at 4 ohms 9 (your impedance)

Maybe you can limit the output from the amp your thinking of buying--

Peavey did think the quickest way to destroy your speakers would be to over drive them with a big amp

From my experience unless you are playing seriously big venues where you may need better quality rigs such as Tony @ A1 has you wont need to worry about loudness using 500 watts a side RMS.

Unless you are into deafening people--theres a new law about that

CRAZY K

[Excalibur]

Hya Crazy if I have it right here this is why you either need an amp with a limiter fitted or by using a separate limiter so to protect against sudden power surges.

The T-AMP have them fitted.

The only limiter on mine is called a volume control!

Just spoke to James 01536 461234 Peavey Corby (Little Scotland) who has no idea why you would consider a PV 2600 for Band work

He thinks the PV 1500 would be fine for you ( pushed hard when necessary) long as you dont get to clipping.

Dont forget that only pushes out 500 watts RMS a side at 4 ohms 9 (your impedance)

Maybe you can limit the output from the amp your thinking of buying--

Peavey did think the quickest way to destroy your speakers would be to over drive them with a big amp

From my experience unless you are playing seriously big venues where you may need better quality rigs such as Tony @ A1 has you wont need to worry about loudness using 500 watts a side RMS.

Unless you are into deafening people--theres a new law about that

CRAZY K

Alan, while I agree with what you have gleaned from Peavey, may I put in my two pennorth. According to website figures, a PV1500 at max output is giving approx 250w RMS ( 500 split between top and bottom) into speakers rated at 300w RMS. I personally feel that something a little bigger ( used circumspectly ) would be preferable, but the PV2600 is probably just a bit too big. I stand by my previous recommendation of the C-Mark/Thomann amp.
HOWEVER, if bi-amping was on the cards in the near future, I'd cheerfully accept the PV1500 as a contender, with possibly something a little bigger for the subs.
This is one of those topics where there are no "right" answers, but many which are not necessarily wrong. I would hesitate to say that many suggestions on this topic were wrong, just that there are other options.

Edit: Alan's right about volume levels, that setup is quite big enough for so many venues. Only power crazed lunatics like myself appear to feel the need for more.

[CRAZY K]

The only limiter on mine is called a volume control!




Alan, while I agree with what you have gleaned from Peavey, may I put in my two pennorth. According to website figures, a PV1500 at max output is giving approx 250w RMS ( 500 split between top and bottom) into speakers rated at 300w RMS. I personally feel that something a little bigger ( used circumspectly ) would be preferable, but the PV2600 is probably just a bit too big. I stand by my previous recommendation of the C-Mark/Thomann amp.
HOWEVER, if bi-amping was on the cards in the near future, I'd cheerfully accept the PV1500 as a contender, with possibly something a little bigger for the subs.
This is one of those topics where there are no "right" answers, but many which are not necessarily wrong. I would hesitate to say that many suggestions on this topic were wrong, just that there are other options.

Edit: Alan's right about volume levels, that setup is quite big enough for so many venues. Only power crazed lunatics like myself appear to feel the need for more.

No problem with that Peter---

A further thought Karl--if the people at Peavey give a matching recommendation AND you blow a speaker--then theres much more chance of there being no quibbles under the 5 year warranty ( which excludes abuse of course) if you have been using what they recommend--in my case a complete Peavey matching set up

If they suspected you had been using bigger amps than they recommend
not so easy.

Just another practical point to consider?

If you dont abuse them I reckon they will last a lifetime--in my case not a lot longer

CRAZY K

[Excalibur]

Valid advice from Peavey's best unpaid salesman there.

Abuse, now that's an interesting concept, I always felt that abuse equated to normal use.

[Vectis]

If you dont abuse them I reckon they will last a lifetime

Hmmm... you say that but the last few weeks I've been trying to get a Prosub-P fixed under warranty. It just stopped working. Rang Peavey, they said take it to the dealer you bought it from. After a lot of haggling with G*****r they agreed to collect it and sort out the claim.

Four weeks later the sub arrives back with me, supposedly fixed. Cue Family Fortunes "Uh-uh" noise.

Rang G*****r, they told me the coil had been replaced and it was all hunky dory and if I had any further problems to go back to Peavey.

So rang Peavey, vented spleen and they're collecting it Friday and delivering me a spanker.


The moral of the tale? Cut out the middle-man

[One Vision]

Have decided to go bi-amp rout, the reason for this is a bit more control and if an amp goes down I still have an option available.
So going for the TA600 MK-X 300rms x2 into 4ohms for mid and top as they don't sup as much juice as bass, and the TA1050 MK-X 525rms x2 into 4ohms.

I guess the next question is what crossover to get?
Alternatively if it works out more by buying a crossover I may just go for 1 PV900 amp and 1 PV1500 amp due to having the built in crossovers.

[CRAZY K]

Have decided to go bi-amp rout, the reason for this is a bit more control and if an amp goes down I still have an option available.
So going for the TA600 MK-X 300rms x2 into 4ohms for mid and top as they don't sup as much juice as bass, and the TA1050 MK-X 525rms x2 into 4ohms.

I guess the next question is what crossover to get?
Alternatively if it works out more by buying a crossover I may just go for 1 PV900 amp and 1 PV1500 amp due to having the built in crossovers.

Im not biased here--as I know nothing about matching crossovers---but at least if you buy the Peavey Amp with their speakers it will be matched correctly.

Which is what I did.

CRAZY K