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In simple terms...
1. Take a pair of XLR cables from your mixer output to the Sub Inputs
2. Take a pair of XLR cables from your Sub Outputs - one to each top speaker
Sorted
Now then, on the dB Sub you'll find two sets of Outputs - one is a copy of the full signal and the other is post-crossover, so in other words with the low-end frequencies stripped out. The crossover point is switchable (80Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz IIRC) on the sub, too, so you can experiment with what sounds best for you.
This means that in the largest rooms where you need a bit more grunt, you can still pass the bass frequencies to your tops, but in most cases I find this is unnecessary.
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Thanks Vectisvibe, much appreciated, do you have the DB 15? if so how do you find it ?
Andy
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Yep I have one. It's great. Replaced two Peavey Prosub-P's with one dBsub and the bass is a little less 'muddy'. Very happy.
My only recommendation is to get a cover for it. I didn't at first and because of it's size/weight it tends to get stuff plonked on top of it in the van and it's quite easily scratched up.
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Thats great advice thanks very much, i'll let you know how it goes, cheers.
Andy
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Ive never used a sub and my system sounds ok but its only 200 watt.
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Originally Posted by
idisco
Ive never used a sub and my system sounds ok but its only 200 watt.
I use a 15 inch Eminence cab or an 18 inch Fane cab dpending on how strong I am feeling and get plenty of bass from them.
If you want more bass without upgrading either put your bass cab in a corner, against a wall or on its side on the floor. The castors on bass bins can lose you quite a bit of bass. You tend to feel low bass rather than hear it.
Last edited by nigelwright7557; 11-10-2008 at 09:43 PM.
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