Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors.
Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker.
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: Connection Panel

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    North Surrey
    Age
    61
    Posts
    24,608

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spin mobile disco View Post
    Hi Ollie the best thing to use is black heat shrink.
    I believe you can also get plastic sleeves which slide over the IEC sockets, and these are a bit more substantial than heat shrink stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by penmare42 View Post
    Think Rob's brother does this sort of thing....maybe he can give you a tip or two.
    He does indeed.

    I'll have a word if you like, Ollie.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    National
    Posts
    3,159

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danno13 View Post
    Well no more so than using a 4/6-way block under your stand - or do you run every item to a different socket in the venue

    You can always use extension blocks within each rack, so that each appliance has it's own fuse and makes it easier to chop and change bits.
    Powercon B to A leads are less likely to fail than 13a to IEC320s as, like ceeforms, they are unfused.

    Fuses in awkward places (inside racks, on trussing, LX bars, etc) are best avoided - which is why it's no coincidence the standard connectors for LX are UNFUSED 15s & 16s and why Furmans & the like are the preferred choice for production racks which need multiple unfused IEC outlets in a 1U strip.

    13a BS1363 plugtops are great for what they were designed - d0m3stic electrics.

  3. #13
    OllieJames's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Northampton, Northamptonshire
    Age
    31
    Posts
    3,039

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BeerFunk View Post
    You can buy electronic mounting boxes, sold for use as 'projects' - but yes, I would surround the mains connections, at the very least!
    Yeah, I had thought that the mains connection should be surrounded!

    Quote Originally Posted by spin mobile disco View Post
    Hi Ollie the best thing to use is black heat shrink. After soldering it on you slide it over and heat it with a hairdryer or similar and it shrinks over the connection sealing it safely.
    The same stuff I used for making my wiring loom.
    Maplin have it in various sizes and it is normally between £3 - £5 for several metres.
    Okay thanks Matt, will check out maplins for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by A1DL View Post
    Ollie - the IEC320-C14 inlet MUST be insulated behind the panel, otherwise it would constitute a visual PAT fail.

    Heat shrinking all the connections is a good idea as they will be much stronger and last longer. I would recommend a prepunched panel, for futureproofing. RCAs, XLRs, jacks, etc are all available in standard panel mount forms. As far as you can, emulate the mixer backpanel on the patch. Don't forget to earth the panel and add a stud in case you want to connect decks at some later point.

    Personally I would replace the IEC320 (horrible connectors) with a 16a Powercon A and perhaps add a 16a Powercon B for daisychaining. An IEC320 is easily pulled out in error/anger/etc whereas Powercons have a locking mechanism.
    Hi Tony,

    Thanks for your input, I was hoping you'd see this thread!

    This will sound like I know nothing, but would prefer to ask for confirmation rather than mess something (or me!) up. How would I go about earthing the panel? The panel will be mounted in the rear of an ABS rack case. Is this the kind of powercon you were talking about? How would I go about enclosing the power so there's no chance of touching the bare wire? Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by MagicMusic View Post
    I build panels similar to this for a major supplier of radio equipment and all we do is heat - shrink all 'exposed' connections. The panel has a grounding wire and I would recommend you include one too.

    Our panels don't have power but if I read your post correctly, the panels you intend to build will be permanently installed so having nothing to cover the back of the panel shouldn't be a problem as there should be no way for you (or anyone else) to access the connections.

    Had a wee look and for and this is the best site I found so far in terms of price / selection.
    Thanks for your reply. There would still be a chance of touching the connections if something has to be re-wired for whatever reason in the back of the console. It would seem shrink-wrapping the connections is a good idea though.

    Quote Originally Posted by rob1963 View Post
    He does indeed.

    I'll have a word if you like, Ollie.
    Hi Rob, Thanks for your reply.

    Well the only thing I'm still 'stuck on' is how to enclose the rear of the panel so that the power connection can not be touched.
    Ollie J. Needham
    O.J. Entertainment
    Northamptonshire, UK

  4. #14
    Corabar Steve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Welwyn Garden City, Herts
    Age
    56
    Posts
    31,974

    Default

    Out of interest, what was your solution in the end Ollie?
    Steve Mad, bad & dangerous to know www.corabar.co.uk
    Better to study for one hour with the wise, than to drink wine with the foolish.
    The opinions of Corabar Steve are not necessarily those of Corabar Entertainment, or any of its subsidiaries

  5. #15
    WWDJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Warwickshire
    Age
    53
    Posts
    2,817

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Corabar Steve View Post
    Out of interest, what was your solution in the end Ollie?
    Ollie hasn't posted since June and I reckon he might be off celbrating / drowning his sorrows today. A Level Results !!

  6. #16
    Jiggles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Edinburgh, Scotland.
    Age
    32
    Posts
    8,327

    Default

    For the d series connectors this is what you need. http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/2...DR_detail.aspx can be bought for like £1 Each.

    Also helps if you have a powercon connector to fit into it.

  7. #17
    Corabar Steve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Welwyn Garden City, Herts
    Age
    56
    Posts
    31,974

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Corabar Steve View Post
    Out of interest, what was your solution in the end Ollie?
    Quote Originally Posted by dh140770 View Post
    Ollie hasn't posted since June and I reckon he might be off celbrating / drowning his sorrows today. A Level Results !!
    As he has been on again recently, I'll ask again.

    What solution did you come up with Ollie?
    Steve Mad, bad & dangerous to know www.corabar.co.uk
    Better to study for one hour with the wise, than to drink wine with the foolish.
    The opinions of Corabar Steve are not necessarily those of Corabar Entertainment, or any of its subsidiaries

  8. #18
    OllieJames's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Northampton, Northamptonshire
    Age
    31
    Posts
    3,039

    Default

    Hey Everyone,

    I didn't do it in the end, Steve. I managed to tidy the internal cabling up enough just to leave 1 main power cable, 2 outputs & mic connection!
    Ollie J. Needham
    O.J. Entertainment
    Northamptonshire, UK

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •