No, i still can't make it work. Can somebody please tell me what to connect based on my plain drawing.
This is how i have connected it. And i have tried many different variations connecting DMX1 and GND also.
I have both transmitter and receiver lights blinking. But nothing happens on receiving fixture.
Last edited by Alpobass; 11-11-2017 at 09:25 AM.
Can anyone help?
Not sure my mind doesn't work with diagrams. When I wire the board into the fixture I use a test meter to find the 5v supply normally off the leg of a voltage regulator. I then just wire the other 3 wires to the DMX plug as it has ground and signal plus and minis.
When I made the receiver boxes I used a main phone charger guts to drop the voltage, but again done with a test meter.
Andy P
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The diagram looks fine to me which leads me to suggest one or more of the wireless dmx boards has a fault or your dmx signals (d+ & d-) are crossed over. There's another possibility though & that may be that 0v on the fixture psu isn't also dmx gnd. This would be the case in a martin or other higher end fixture. Those tend to isolate dmx from the rest of the fixture electronics (for safety mostly) & need a different approach.
Without seeing photos of the fixture's guts it's impossible to help further.
Yes. Thanks for answers so far. I also have feeling that boards are messed up.
That is pcb of AmericanDJ Ultrabar9. Can you spot where to take that +5VDC. I have found several points with multimeter, but which is right?
I generally measure across power supply capacitors or readily available logic chips. See the 8 pin chip near the dmx connector? There's a surface mount capacitor (brownish in colour with 2 silver ends) to the right of it. There would be a good place to start. It looks like it's marked C19
OK I opened one of my converted fixtures just for you. DMX all works fine - as a receiver and as a transmitter.
Red goes to +5V inside the fixture
White goes to XLR pin 2
Yellow goes to XLR pin 3
Black goes to 0V.
With the vast majority of ADJ fixtures I've converted lately (ADJ QPlus Go, Startec Gobo, etc) they've been nice enough to bring the DMX +/-, 5v and Gnd to a header on the PCB and label it really clearly so it hasn't taken much rooting about to find the right places to connect the cables.
It might be worth probing the two lines of pads that are outlined to take headers (and currently have nothing connected). You might find they do exactly what you need?
Julian
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Also, I had a mate's fixture in over the weekend for me to have a look at because the wireless board had stopped working. The replacement board he brought turned out to have open circuit DMX connections! Luckily he had another which turned out to work & I managed to get it all working as it should.
Then this reminded me I've also had at least one faulty board shipped to me when I bought the last batch of 6. FWIW all the dodgy boards have a blue coloured PCB and all came with incorrect wire colours in the connector.
If I thought there was a snowball in hell's chance of being able to read the firmware out of a working one I'd be tempted to spin my own boards - the chips are all er.. cheap as chips & small batches of circuit boards don't cost much. Add in assembly in a UK small scale production facility they might come in at £25 a pop though..
Something I gleaned the other day about the aerials supplied, coupled with the knowledge of the output power of the actual wireless chip employed - I have a sneaky feeling these might actually be illegal in Europe using the aerial they come with. That's quite easy to get around though in theory.. just use a lower gain stub aerial