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Thread: Old disco lighting - LED conversion

  1. #1
    dicky's Avatar
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    Default Old disco lighting - LED conversion

    To follow on a question asked on another thread by atdf



    I've been having a look into this topic of converting lighting to LED - in particular to rgeatly increase the output on old lights

    After extensive research (well 10 mins anyway) I found a few interesting sources of information

    In particular this thread her by our very own Julian
    http://www.forum.mobilediscodirector...r-been-tempted

    Interesting read but this thread is now six yeasrs old - things move on, have things changed since then? Jules did you continue this work/experimentation?


    OK from my own research
    -------------------------

    1. Converting old incandescent light fittings to LED. There seem to be a few issues that need to be worked around with this.

    a. High power LEDs 'can be' an array of smaller power LEDs which affects focusing
    b. 'White' LEDs are actually a mixture of a yellow and blue and/or UV light LEd source so although they look white to the eye they don't have anything like the even spread of colour spectrum as incandescent or discharge lamps. SO instead of a 'rainbow' of colours they contain sharp bands of colour - and this doesn't work the way you would expect with dichroic filters
    c. LED sources need a large heatsink - so you coult not (easily) for example convert an old 50W Vasto to 100W LED (something I would have loveto have done for the hell of it) as the halogen light sits between the concave mirror and the lens so would block the light path if you put an LED and large heatsink there. Old lights with the lamp source behind the optics should be easier to convert
    d. On the plus side high wattage 12V/24V halogen lights do at least have a nice transformer inside them which we can use to power our big LEDs

    Despite these issues I did find some images and a video of converting an old spinmaster III to 100W LED and this seems to be pretty successful. The use of a CPU heatsink/fan seems a good way to go with this too

    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3297.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3298.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3299.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3300.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3301.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3302.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3303.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3304.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3305.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3306.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3307.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3308.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3309.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3310.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3311.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3312.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3313.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3314.JPG
    http://sonicbass.co.uk/MojoSpinmaster3/IMG_3315.mov

    100W LEDs are pretty cheap now and Lenses seem easily available for a quid or two - for example the following two links, but ther are plenty others
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100W-LED-C...item5d52ff2eb8
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-set-100W...item2a3bb66ae4


    2. Converting older low wattage LED fittings to higher wattage LED

    I can't find much info (or any really) on this howerver there are plenty of low wattage LED lights around going second hand very cheap these adays so it must be worth consideration - converting some of the old low powered ones to high power

    Roughly splitting this into three lots.

    a. LED fittings with lots of 'high brightness' LEDs - I would say not possible to upgared these IMHO

    b. Fittings with a single white LED source. These 'should' be convertable to higher wattage white LED fairly easily if you have enough space to fit the LED itself and a larger heatsink and/or cooling fan. Also you probably need to fit a higher rate internal supply or probably fit a second one just for the LED and of course a suitable constant current driver for the LED itself. But is sounds do-able to me if there is the physical space in the fitting.

    b. fittings with an RGB LED source. If it's a single LED (not several separate colour ones) you can buy 100W RGB leds for about £6. This sort of conversion would raise some interesting issues as I would suspect quite a few LED lights use PWM (pulse width modulation) as a method of driving the LED source with the correct current, plus giving dimming effect and as the RGB LED is being controlled by the microcontroller in the fixture (changing colour etc) you can't just fit a separate LED power supply.

    For example dirt those cheap 'LED Crystal Balls' do this PWM control of the LED at quite high frequencies as it is a very efficient way of driving and controlling an LED. I would have thought (forgive me I have not tried this it's just my musings on the matter) that it would be relatively easy to build a circuit using power FETs (cheap as chips) to take the original PWM drive to (for example) a 3W LED and interface it to a 100W LED - with of course an additonal power source for the power FETs and LED - this would maintain all the current abilities of the light (colour chage/fade/mix/dimming etc)

    Anyone else have any input on this - it could be an interesting topic and project for some of us?


    Rich

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by dicky View Post
    Anyone else have any input on this - it could be an interesting topic and project for some of us?
    Rich
    Yes! Two things. First and foremost, if you don't know what you're doing, steer well away from such ventures. Dicky has a long background in electronics, so knows exactly how to do it safely. It's not something for beginners.


    Second, movie's not loading for me. Sorry.
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    I had no problem with the movie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Excalibur View Post
    Second, movie's not loading for me. Sorry.
    Quote Originally Posted by musicology View Post
    I had no problem with the movie.
    Ah. IE won't load it, Chrome no problem, I now find.
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    I take your point Peter regards safety and it is a very good one.

    I would mention though that any of these sort of modifications are on the low voltage side (typically 12V) so are really no more dangerous than someone wiring an 'alegedely' 2000W ICE boot install into a car - but yes you are right, working on this sort of stuff safely does require you to understand what you are doing. Which is why I said 'interesting project for some of us'

    I have found a few other online forums with info on this topic so it is something some folks are doing (or at least experimenting with)

    Will try to collate a bit of it for others interested here if that is OK

    Actually that 'mystery light fitting' - possible invincibLED or LEX lexBox - that I posted on this thread http://www.forum.mobilediscodirector...o-identify-%29 would seem, due to it's physical design, heatsink position and the fact it doesn't really owe me anything , to be a good candidate to attempt the upgrade of a 10W RGB fitting to 100W whilst retaining all the standard fetaures. Hmmmmm......

    Rich

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    Interesting, well thought out points there Dicky

    In my parents' attic I've got an ancient Solar 250 clone which initially had a broken lampholder, then I dismantled it to give it an overhaul & respray - and the lens holders somehow broke. I got to thinking about how easy it'd be to convert it to LED. I think there might even be the original effects wheels lying around somewhere. Fat lot of use an oil wheel would be with an LED projector though eh

    From my own conclusions, converting anything to use LEDs is going to be a lot of work. As a pet project that's fine, but you're not going to save yourself any money in the process if your own time is valuable to you.

    I've pondered trying strips of 5050 RGB LEDs to make striplights, light screens & all kinds of funky gear. I've seen videos showing them to be pretty nifty at truss warming - I'd be tempted to try them out for 'stand warming' too. Controlling them with DMX seems to be an absolute doddle. And then there are the ubiquitous LED 'pixels' - individually addressable (for that read controllable - you can control the colour & brightness of *every* LED in the array separately). You could probably do a reasonable job of lashing together a fine RGB starcloth with some of those. Search Youtube for 'madrix' to get an idea of what's possible.

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    I didn't go any further with that particular experiment. At the time the LED's, lenses and power supplies I needed to do the job weren't widely available. They are now, but sadly I don't have the fixtures any more. If I were to do it again.... it would be a single CREE or COB White LED attached to a small heatsink with a fixed lens and a constant current driver (now about a fiver - but unavailable at the time) replacing the 100w 12V switch mode pack that you find in the Dynamo's. I think I would have had reasonable success with that set up. LED's have also come a long way in the last 5 years, whereas white LED's used to be multiple RGB LED's built in close proximity, they're now usually Blue LED's with a phosphor coating.

    A couple of points on this whole topic...

    1. Safety... While you're right that it's all low voltage so it is (in theory) low risk, you still need a level of knowledge about cable ratings and how to connect and route cables within fixtures to make the end result safe so it is a) unlikely to burst into flames and b) unlikely to electrocute someone. If in doubt, ask a grownup (or someone with experience of electrical safety anyway) In case this isn't obvious, if you open up a fixture, it should be PAT tested before going back into service to ensure that nothing you have done has caused it to become dangerous. If you're talking about switching out existing SMD LED's for higher output ones, then you need a good working knowledge of electronics to avoid blowing driver IC's, turning resistors into charcoal or melting tracks on circuit boards

    2. While it sounds like fun to turn a 100w Halogen fixture into a 100w LED fixture, when you go for these kinds of wattages of LED's there's a few things to consider. Firstly, the energy output from a 100w LED is actually enough to melt black plastic at close proximity so you need to consider the impact the LED will have on the inside of the fixture (especially if you can't focus all of the output through the lens so a lot ends up bouncing around inside the case). Secondly - you need to consider your audience - Looking at a 100w LED is roughly the equivalent of staring at a 750w halogen security light. Pretty uncomfortable - and actually dangerous to the retina. All of the pro fixtures come with PWM dimmers so you'll need to replicate this function somehow.

    I'd be more inclined to go with something like 25w or 50w as a starting point - it'll be more than bright enough for most functions outside of arena grade productions Good luck though, and don't forget to share the results

    Julian
    Last edited by DJ Jules; 11-05-2015 at 07:34 AM.
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    Good points Julian on upgrading existing LED fixtures and some things to consider there.

    I do still think it is possible to interface the PWM drive from a 10W fixture to a 100W LED for example - at the end of the the day it is just square waves of various widths - Just the power delivered to the output device is increased so I would envisage you just need an extra 'output' stage, most likely power FETs - but yep I ain't tried it yet so there could be various hurdles I have not anticipated

    There is not a lot of info on the various electronics forums about this...... so that makes it 'suck it and see' I think. However it is true as I said, that the component cost these days is low.. If you have any links to the availability of low cost CREE or COB LEDs I would appreciate the info mate.

    All I can say really is that I will give it a go with that 10W invinceblED, or whatever it is that I have got my hands on ,as the optical path and heatsink positioning seem to be exactly right for this sort of conversion.

    I need to order some components from China (cos it's cheap so doesn't matter so much if I trash a few LEDs in the process) but yes will post the info here as I go along, though it will take a few weeks to get the components here.

    If anyone else on the forum is really interested in working on this sort of project and has some electronics knowledge it would be nice to be in touch with you, by PM maybe, so we can work together and compare results as we go along

    Rich
    Last edited by dicky; 11-05-2015 at 10:26 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dicky View Post
    Good points Julian on upgrading existing LED fixtures and some things to consider there.

    I do still think it is possible to interface the PWM drive from a 10W fixture to a 100W LED for example - at the end of the the day it is just square waves of various widths - Just the power delivered to the output device is increased so I would envisage you just need an extra 'output' stage, most likely power FETs - but yep I ain't tried it yet so there could be various hurdles I have not anticipated
    I believe (but I haven't checked) that you can get constant current drivers that accept a low current on/off signal and from what I've been told, this can be switched fast enough to create a dimmer using PWM. This is all theoretical though, I've never checked on the practicality.

    Julian
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    looked into doing this with a martin 812, trying to find a decent led to duplicate the light output with a decent beam was proving hard to do, they do have a bit of room inside and I recon it could be possible.

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