Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors.
Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker.
-
-
Originally Posted by
Imagine
And just to make this post worthwhile.......
A very modern phenomenon is punters trying to lean/rest on the light screens (yes...I've had several fall THROUGH them in the past after a couple of small sherries!). Any ideas for making them lean proof more than welcome. The three central screens obviously have my table/booth/mixer behind them so are fairly bombproof....the ones outside of that though (at least another two each side) are fair game for those who can't stand up without assistance and it's becoming a pain the the bottom!
Could you not screw a plate in the top two corners with an arm/leg attached that swings out and acts as a stand?
Or even a couple of hooks along the back top of all the screens and have a couple of bars across them, acting as a link/connector so you've got some chance of stopping a fall without being in arms reach?
-
Dinosaur
-
Originally Posted by
Imagine
A very modern phenomenon is punters trying to lean/rest on the light screens (yes...I've had several fall THROUGH them in the past after a couple of small sherries!). Any ideas for making them lean proof more than welcome.
You could make two right angled triangular frames out of wood (2" x 1" or similar) and attach them with hinges to the back of your light boxes, when folded out, they should prevent them from being knocked over. If you have 2 boxes or more, you could also attach a sliding bolt, like you would fit to a garden gate, with the clasp on one box, and the bolt on the other to add even more stability when linked together.
Inside every old person, is a young person wondering 'What The Hell Happened'. Tempus Fugit
Disco 4 Hire
-
Originally Posted by
Excalibur
Firewood logs, loads of them. I'm prepared for a cold winter. Biggest killer of Old People, I'm taking no chances.
Oh, sorry, I see what you're getting at.
I never possessed any of the items which you refer to. I always built them into spot boxes. And why were you looking for Zero 4000s when I offered you Ryger controllers, at a very reasonable price?
Call me old fashioned - I always used the 4000's back in the day and it's one of those itches I needed to scratch
Originally Posted by
DJWilson
Could you not screw a plate in the top two corners with an arm/leg attached that swings out and acts as a stand?
Or even a couple of hooks along the back top of all the screens and have a couple of bars across them, acting as a link/connector so you've got some chance of stopping a fall without being in arms reach?
Originally Posted by
Pe7e
You could make two right angled triangular frames out of wood (2" x 1" or similar) and attach them with hinges to the back of your light boxes, when folded out, they should prevent them from being knocked over. If you have 2 boxes or more, you could also attach a sliding bolt, like you would fit to a garden gate, with the clasp on one box, and the bolt on the other to add even more stability when linked together.
Two very similar suggestions along the lines I was already thinking after a little pondering over my morning cuppa. Bit reluctant to bolt them all together - I have visions of the entire show topping if someone's leaning into one of the boxes enough. I'll investigate the triangular fold out bits a bit further though because that's very little effort on the night.
Cheers all
-
Are your reflector lamps 80mm wide? (And roughly 100mm long?).
Presumably you're wanting the lamps to be contained within a PAR so they don't get broken, rather than having them sticking out the front from some sort of E27 fitting? (I have a recollection that somewhen around 1990 we built a pair or T bars with 8 (I think) reflector lamps on each of the top and bottom, with the lamps exposed and we just had to be careful about moving them around. We'd knocked up a big wooden crate that held them both. Think they were using some form of plastic swivel fitting, such as often found in that era for retail lighting.)
Although you can get PAR30s with E27 fittings, you're going to struggle getting the lamps in and out as you're only going to have around 7mm gap around the edge of the lamp, so you'll probably be better off with PAR38s, such as the ones Thomann sell with an E27 fitting. Sorry I don't think I can currently link to them as the mouse buttons on my laptop have packed up so I can't right click but just google for thomann eurolite par38 and it's likely to be the first result. Available in black or silver. Presumably they'll also be available from other suppliers, although it's a relatively unusual size.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules