I guess my FBTs must be unique in this scenario.
I guess my FBTs must be unique in this scenario.
Not heard of a single case of CS1000 blowing up yet I'll grant you that. Nor anything else from the Vertus or Ventis range oddly enough.
X-pro & xlites on the other hand... Virtually everyone I know who's had them couldn't wait to get shot of them. They loved how they sounded (as did I tbh) but couldn't get on with them exploding for some reason...
Thank you Justin and Peter for updating me on the active speaker scenario which I never quite got into, only briefly with a pair of old EVs which Daz sold me years ago
and which worked fine until one night one stopped working, sounded sweet for lower volume events.
Offloaded to a friend for £50.
As an official sound dinosaur I still like my passive Peavey set up despite the weight which I can live with, just have to keep replacing the overseas Amps
which cant keep up with my Corby Factory produced Peavey speakers.
Corby is in Northants for those who dont know.
I believe Dynacord produce some really excellent equipment according to a local Musician --pity I cant afford it just now!
Bit shocked about FBT as I was told they were brilliant by a friend who is a DJ, however maybe thats just the sound when they are actually working.
Going to get out the powered driver carefully and have a go, many thanks Justin for the detailed plan, pleased to confirm driver is not set for taking wheel nuts off cars
Will report back, thanks again,
ALAN
I can not disagree with your findings. Much the same as my experience.
They undoubtedly have the greatest number of afficionados eager to proclaim their virtues. They do indeed sound very very nice. As alluded to above though, I believe certain models are a tad " brittle", and prone to failure.
My favourites are the J series, and possibly the new J Max ( which I haven't heard yet ).
I like how most fbt speakers sound - and indeed rcf etc but I much prefer a less stylised look... which is how I came to splurge 1600 quid on my RCF HD12A tops. I wasn't about to gamble on the newer Altos - and lower end Ev & Yamahas are best avoided... Brittle amplifier syndrome again (not forgetting abject lying specs).
Apparently the 'look' of rcf & fbt lines is dictated by their American market preferring cabinets that look like baboon's backsides rather than a nice sleek flat front. Sigh.
As a passive speaker dinousar what is BAS Brittle Amplifier Syndrome?
Is this a Class D amp in an Active Cab that breaks down due to being gigged hard from town to town getting chucked about in cars and vans?
I thought EV would have been pretty sturdy---not that I have much experience of these makes other than some old EVs of mine which started playing up ( fair enough) and listening to an Elvis performer who was using Yamaha tops effectively enough.
The more I read about this the more im sticking to passives and expendable Chinese and Indonesian amps, although I dont know where my newly acquired
slave amp by Citronic is made
thanks
ALAN
Hi there, problems.
Got to removing the four screws holding the amplifier to the mounting frame, however that doesnt give direct access to the fan.
It requires the further removal of six further screws which hold the bottom of the amp casing to the upper casing, also can see the fan is held by a further 4 screws that are not accessible without removing the bottom section.
I can get external access without further messing about to the red and black thin wires that are the fan connection wires.
I am considering cutting these baring them and putting 12 volts across them to see if the fan rotates.
If it does work then its clearly something more complicated beyond my skills, if it doesnt work then hopefully further deassembling of the unit giving access to the fan FOR REPLACEMENT will be worthwhile.
Does this sound like a plan?
How would you put 12 volts across the fan?
I dont have any batteries but my local garage probably could do it for me as they work on 12 volts for cars of course.
I suppose I could use jump leads from my car battery ?
Advice appreciated.
many thanks,
ALAN
A fan will likely run from a 9v battery so if you can contrive something with some paper clips to shove into the connector (to save cutting wires) try that. Or, I've been known to use a 12v mains adapter like one for my radio mic... Just make sure it's actually 12v with a multimeter before using it to test the fan
Well I got the amp section dismantled, four more screws than anticipated and had to drill and hacksaw a slot in one screw as it would NOT turn
---aaargh Chinese Products.
Did my apprenticeship on this rubbish repairing cars in the 60s whilst enjoying the music of the era !!!!!!
Did a 12volt test and fan appears dead, going to my garage for a 12 volt double check.
Pic enclosed.
Are these likely to be standard size screw fixings and 12v with wattage 0.34amps ?
I will probably go to RS components and pick up at Counter in Corby to make sure.
Any advice on purchasing ?
Many thanks,
ALAN
CRAZY K
www.retrodisco.co.uk Mobile Disco and 80s Night Specialists, Devon