Connection Panel

[OllieJames]

Hi all,

Just a quick post to ask this:

I would like to make these two connection panels to help speed up set up and to neaten up my console:

http://www.ojentertainment.co.uk/mdd/Back%20Connection%20Panel.png

I've found all the parts etc, but is it really that safe to have potentially exposed cable on the otherside of the panel with no box round like it a stage box/wall box would? Or wouldn't this be a problem? I've found alternatives which require no soldering so therefore no bare wire. (http://www.terralec.co.uk/audio_connectors/through_chassis_xlr_f_to_xlr_m/24478_p.html)

Thanks, Ollie

[BeerFunk]

You can buy electronic mounting boxes, sold for use as 'projects' - but yes, I would surround the mains connections, at the very least!

[spin mobile disco]

Hi Ollie the best thing to use is black heat shrink. After soldering it on you slide it over and heat it with a hairdryer or similar and it shrinks over the connection sealing it safely.
The same stuff I used for making my wiring loom.
Maplin have it in various sizes and it is normally between £3 - £5 for several metres.

[Penfold42]

Think Rob's brother does this sort of think ....maybe he can give you a tip or two. :)

[A1DL]

Ollie - the IEC320-C14 inlet MUST be insulated behind the panel, otherwise it would constitute a visual PAT fail.

Heat shrinking all the connections is a good idea as they will be much stronger and last longer. I would recommend a prepunched panel, for futureproofing. RCAs, XLRs, jacks, etc are all available in standard panel mount forms. As far as you can, emulate the mixer backpanel on the patch. Don't forget to earth the panel and add a stud in case you want to connect decks at some later point.

Personally I would replace the IEC320 (horrible connectors) with a 16a Powercon A and perhaps add a 16a Powercon B for daisychaining. An IEC320 is easily pulled out in error/anger/etc whereas Powercons have a locking mechanism.

[MagicMusic]

is it really that safe to have potentially exposed cable on the otherside of the panel

I build panels similar to this for a major supplier of radio equipment and all we do is heat - shrink all 'exposed' connections. The panel has a grounding wire and I would recommend you include one too.

Our panels don't have power but if I read your post correctly, the panels you intend to build will be permanently installed so having nothing to cover the back of the panel shouldn't be a problem as there should be no way for you (or anyone else) to access the connections.

Had a wee look and for and this (http://www.markertek.co.uk/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=AMS-UF1) is the best site I found so far in terms of price / selection.

[Danno13]

An IEC connection doesn't come in the standard fitting to go on the most commonly avaliable pre-punched panels so I'd go with Tony's suggestion and use powercons instead. If you always add a powercon out too, then if you're using several racks together you can just link them all up and save the spaghetti underneath the deckstand!

[Vectis]

If you always add a powercon out too, then if you're using several racks together you can just link them all up and save the spaghetti underneath the deckstand!

Ooh... potential single point of failure alert :o

Sorry... got my backup head on tonight :D

[Danno13]

Well no more so than using a 4/6-way block under your stand - or do you run every item to a different socket in the venue :D

You can always use extension blocks within each rack, so that each appliance has it's own fuse and makes it easier to chop and change bits.

[Vectis]

Well no more so than using a 4/6-way block under your stand - or do you run every item to a different socket in the venue :D

You can always use extension blocks within each rack, so that each appliance has it's own fuse and makes it easier to chop and change bits.

I use as many as I feasibly can... am I sad? :p

[rob1963]

Hi Ollie the best thing to use is black heat shrink.

I believe you can also get plastic sleeves which slide over the IEC sockets, and these are a bit more substantial than heat shrink stuff.


Think Rob's brother does this sort of thing....maybe he can give you a tip or two. :)

He does indeed.

I'll have a word if you like, Ollie.

[A1DL]

Well no more so than using a 4/6-way block under your stand - or do you run every item to a different socket in the venue :D

You can always use extension blocks within each rack, so that each appliance has it's own fuse and makes it easier to chop and change bits.

Powercon B to A leads are less likely to fail than 13a to IEC320s as, like ceeforms, they are unfused.

Fuses in awkward places (inside racks, on trussing, LX bars, etc) are best avoided - which is why it's no coincidence the standard connectors for LX are UNFUSED 15s & 16s and why Furmans & the like are the preferred choice for production racks which need multiple unfused IEC outlets in a 1U strip.

13a BS1363 plugtops are great for what they were designed - d0m3stic electrics.

[OllieJames]

You can buy electronic mounting boxes, sold for use as 'projects' - but yes, I would surround the mains connections, at the very least!

Yeah, I had thought that the mains connection should be surrounded! :D


Hi Ollie the best thing to use is black heat shrink. After soldering it on you slide it over and heat it with a hairdryer or similar and it shrinks over the connection sealing it safely.
The same stuff I used for making my wiring loom.
Maplin have it in various sizes and it is normally between £3 - £5 for several metres.

Okay thanks Matt, will check out maplins for it.


Ollie - the IEC320-C14 inlet MUST be insulated behind the panel, otherwise it would constitute a visual PAT fail.

Heat shrinking all the connections is a good idea as they will be much stronger and last longer. I would recommend a prepunched panel, for futureproofing. RCAs, XLRs, jacks, etc are all available in standard panel mount forms. As far as you can, emulate the mixer backpanel on the patch. Don't forget to earth the panel and add a stud in case you want to connect decks at some later point.

Personally I would replace the IEC320 (horrible connectors) with a 16a Powercon A and perhaps add a 16a Powercon B for daisychaining. An IEC320 is easily pulled out in error/anger/etc whereas Powercons have a locking mechanism.

Hi Tony,

Thanks for your input, I was hoping you'd see this thread!

This will sound like I know nothing, but would prefer to ask for confirmation rather than mess something (or me!) up. How would I go about earthing the panel? The panel will be mounted in the rear of an ABS rack case. Is this the kind of powercon you were talking about? (http://www.argosycable.com/detail.asp?c_urn=21&show=allpgno2&urn=299) How would I go about enclosing the power so there's no chance of touching the bare wire? Thanks!


I build panels similar to this for a major supplier of radio equipment and all we do is heat - shrink all 'exposed' connections. The panel has a grounding wire and I would recommend you include one too.

Our panels don't have power but if I read your post correctly, the panels you intend to build will be permanently installed so having nothing to cover the back of the panel shouldn't be a problem as there should be no way for you (or anyone else) to access the connections.

Had a wee look and for and this (http://www.markertek.co.uk/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=AMS-UF1) is the best site I found so far in terms of price / selection.

Thanks for your reply. There would still be a chance of touching the connections if something has to be re-wired for whatever reason in the back of the console. It would seem shrink-wrapping the connections is a good idea though.


He does indeed.

I'll have a word if you like, Ollie.

Hi Rob, Thanks for your reply.

Well the only thing I'm still 'stuck on' is how to enclose the rear of the panel so that the power connection can not be touched. :confused:

[Corabar Steve]

Out of interest, what was your solution in the end Ollie?

[WWDJ]

Out of interest, what was your solution in the end Ollie?

Ollie hasn't posted since June and I reckon he might be off celbrating / drowning his sorrows today. A Level Results !! :D

[Jiggles]

For the d series connectors this is what you need. http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_542039095/SCDR_detail.aspx can be bought for like £1 Each.

Also helps if you have a powercon connector to fit into it. :sj:

[Corabar Steve]

Out of interest, what was your solution in the end Ollie?


Ollie hasn't posted since June and I reckon he might be off celbrating / drowning his sorrows today. A Level Results !! :D
As he has been on again recently, I'll ask again.

What solution did you come up with Ollie?

[OllieJames]

Hey Everyone,

I didn't do it in the end, Steve. I managed to tidy the internal cabling up enough just to leave 1 main power cable, 2 outputs & mic connection!