DIY Sub

[Booche]

Well i've been given a box/sub box which is basically a shell for a 15" sub BUT i've no idea what else i need to make it "Finished" apart from the obvious a sub lol

I will get the size of the unit tommorow but it does take a 15" speaker as i tried my busted peavey for size lol

Any help on hints on what to add and weres best to get them from etc

Budget is cheap as BUT this is a project so will proberley be able to get better things in time of saving up :)

This is it:

10433

10434

[supersound]

You need to know if you are running active or passive with the crossover.
If passive you need to fit a crossover to match the driver and cut the freq at the desired level.

I would go for a 1u rack active crossover so the best results can be tweaked.

I will give you info on finish too either paint or carpet.Just ask.

Paul

[Excalibur]

Young Tom Davis ( Tom KMA ) was well into this. He has some software which told you what size box worked with a given driver. I don't know if it can work backwards, ie tell you what driver works best in a given size box. :confused: Get a suitable one, and it could work well, get an unsuitable one, and it could sound rubbish. Good luck.

Dave, I hesitate to suggest this, because I know a couple of us have fallen into the trap, and one member in particular is struggling with the addiction, but everything you need can be found at CPC, backplate, speakon connectors, crossover, hardware, dust covers, cuddly toy, etc. :D Just don't spend too much. ;) :D

[DAVESOUNDS SERVICES]

Now THAT looks well made!
Youve loads of options....
add a cheap skytec like 15inch cheapo pressed
steel driver for peanuts (it wont be over sensitive)
or maybe splash out on a better branded driver .
If you stick a bass- inductor/filter inside you could get
away without a crossover too.
theseare good at 80 pounds 400 real watts

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Celestion-Truvox-TF1530-15-400W-loudspeaker-driver-8-O-/140482509100?pt=UK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL&hash=item20b568f92c

heres your filter

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Passive-Subwoofer-Bass-Sub-Speaker-Filter-120Hz-600W-/120658348300?pt=UK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL&hash=item1c17cc490c

speakon back socket ideal for diy

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Neutrik-NL4MPR-4-pole-Speakon-Socket-Round-/200557874588?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item2eb22e4d9c


then simply paint it black
(or use the speaker paint)
and pop sone corners and a steel grill onto it
Good luck ....if you wanted to make it uncarryable stick
an amp in to make it active....

these are very good ...
http://www.bkelec.com/MODULES/amplifiers.htm

cheers

[TONYTIGER]

Hi Dave,the sub you have been given is very much the same as the ones we used to manufacture in our workshop it is well made other than it is missing any bracing should really have some 1" x 1" par timber round the joints inside quite easy to do if the front has not been glued on ,this is called the baffle board and looks that unscrews.
You need to measure it and that will tell you how many litres it is get yourself a brouchre or download some info from some speaker companies like Fane or Eminence and they will list a suitable bass driver for that size of cab.
It will need lining with some acoustic wadding its white and you staple it inside the cab.
You have to decide if you are going to mount your new driver on the back of the baffle board or drop in from the front use bolts not screws you can buy speaker fixing kits which come with protective grill although i much more prefer a full grill,theres a fella on ebay who makes them to your required size and i tend to have foam to protect the front of the cone.
All the fittings are in cpc or look online at Adam Hall thats who i use.
I also note that the cab has square edges you are better rounding them off with a router saves break out and will make fitting the corners much more professional as most have a radius,try and use handles that are surface mounted as it makes it easy to keep the cab air tight .
Thats the basics other than Xover and your connectors,you can get pre drilled dish for speakons X2.

[Booche]

WOW thankyou so much for all the info guys this means alot and will be very very helpfull :D

I'll look at what has been said and hopefully get a up and running sub :)

[DeckstarDeluxe]

Tom Davis is your man for this.

[Booche]

Tom Davis is your man for this.

Will be contacting him very soon :D

[supersound]

when you fit the driver,don't screw straight in th MDF.Drill holes and use "T" nuts and machine screws.

[Booche]

when you fit the driver,don't screw straight in th MDF.Drill holes and use "T" nuts and machine screws.

The holes are predrilled so ill use the T nuts that self grip etc (if that makes sense) lol

[Excalibur]

Tom Davis is your man for this.

Errrrr, Neil. Post #3. Ring any bells? :o :D :D :D :D :D :D


Young Tom Davis ( Tom KMA ) was well into this. He has some software which told you what size box worked with a given driver. I don't know if it can work backwards, ie tell you what driver works best in a given size box. :confused: Get a suitable one, and it could work well, get an unsuitable one, and it could sound rubbish. Good luck.

[TONYTIGER]

Only used to build for Martin Audio on the scrap heap again :(

[Tom]

Young Tom Davis ( Tom KMA ) was well into this. He has some software which told you what size box worked with a given driver. I don't know if it can work backwards, ie tell you what driver works best in a given size box. :confused: Get a suitable one, and it could work well, get an unsuitable one, and it could sound rubbish. Good luck.

Dave, I hesitate to suggest this, because I know a couple of us have fallen into the trap, and one member in particular is struggling with the addiction, but everything you need can be found at CPC, backplate, speakon connectors, crossover, hardware, dust covers, cuddly toy, etc. :D Just don't spend too much. ;) :D


Tom Davis is your man for this.


Will be contacting him very soon :D


Errrrr, Neil. Post #3. Ring any bells? :o :D :D :D :D :D :D


Hello.......is it me you looking for?

[Danno13]

Only used to build for Martin Audio on the scrap heap again :(

Must have missed that episode of Scrapheap challenge where Martin Audio featured :D

It's funny you mentioned actually, I was thinking that box looked pretty similar to the MA Blackline S15s?

[Excalibur]

Hello.......is it me you looking for?

Errr, yes. :D Hello mate.;)

[Tom]

Ok, so going by the pictures, its just a slot hole with no form of slot. So if anything, the port will be as think as the wood is so, 18mm?

When you need to do is to find out the internal size of the cab, but to make things easier, just simply measure the cab in mm, so hight, width and depth.

Once you got this, you simply subtract a few bits. So again, going by the picture and guessing 18mm, you wanna take off 36mm from the hight, width and depth.

Now you have your measurements, this is what you want to do. So for example if the cab is 400mm high, 500 deep and 400 wide, you simply go 400x500x400 which gives you 80,000,000

The cab internal size would be 80 litres.

Once we know the size we can then look at drivers within your price range and get the measurements on the software and see what works. :)

[Booche]

Must thank Tom for all the advice and help he has given me and for everything he has said and is doing :)

Will have a update once i've chopped a few fingers off and sanded my toes down a few inch's lol

[Get Me A DJ]

What I want to know is where you put the washing power and conditioner :D

[Booche]

What I want to know is where you put the washing power and conditioner :D

lol my misses said exactly the same last night lol

Im so tempted to make a door and let my daughter play with it lol

[Get Me A DJ]

lol my misses said exactly the same last night lol

Im so tempted to make a door and let my daughter play with it lol

for god sake don't leave your daughter in there when the speaker chassis goes in the cabinet :eek: :eek: :eek:

[TONYTIGER]

This is a useful link for members who fancy a speaker DIY project.

http://www.eminence.com/support/designing-enclosures/