New member hello and help

[noeyfb]

Hello everyone Just been giving a lot of 2nd hand dj stuff but having problems getting it working. Sound wise perfect but every time i connect the lights everything blows. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Mark

[Excalibur]

Hello Mark. :welcome2:

[djdj]

Welcome
What lights are you using?

[Pe7e]

Generally speaking it sounds like you're overloading the circuit or you have a direct short, both of which are usually easy to trace and sort out. if you don't know what you're doing, try to find a friend who does, to take a look for you. Electricity can, and often is fatal, don't mess with it, it's really not worth the risk.

[noeyfb]

Thanks for the replys. Im usually ok with these sort of things. Apparently the lights got tested 2 weeks ago and were working fine. Ive tried all the bulbs and all are working fine. Ive attached a few pics of what im having issues with.
As soon as the powers connected everything just blows. Its just a few box lights. Not the best of pics but thats what i have just now.

184081840918410

[yourdj]

Thanks for the replys. Im usually ok with these sort of things. Apparently the lights got tested 2 weeks ago and were working fine. Ive tried all the bulbs and all are working fine. Ive attached a few pics of what im having issues with.
As soon as the powers connected everything just blows. Its just a few box lights. Not the best of pics but thats what i have just now.

184081840918410

Probably a short circuit - wire come loose on one of the lighting things. I had that on an uplighter the other day, everything when pop and the venue fuse tripped. It has since been assigned to the 'don't work' pile of fixtures in my garage as its clearly not safe. More often than not i will open it up and something has 80% of the time come loose, so its an easy fix. If I can't see anything then i will sell it as faulty as safe working equipment is number one!

That looks like a seriously old lighting unit, consider getting something more modern as everything (pretty much) is LED nowadays unless a lot of power is needed. :)

[Benny Smyth]

Apparently the lights got tested 2 weeks ago and were working fine.

Tested how? Does anything have a PAT sticker on them?

I'm afraid that I suspect that since this was given to you, it's a scenario where you've received exactly what you've paid for.

[yourdj]

Tested how? Does anything have a PAT sticker on them?

I'm afraid that I suspect that since this was given to you, it's a scenario where you've received exactly what you've paid for.

LOL - nothing. I have a number of items in my garage that were given to me and none of them work properly. I intend to sell all of it in November.

[noeyfb]

Thanks for the reply's im fortunate i never actually paid anything for them. They have pat tested stickers on them but they can easily be faked. Scrap pile for them or maybe get an electrician to have a look at them?

[Imagine]

Okaaaaaayyy.....Bulgin light screens, we're well and truly in my arena here (I run a 16 ft light-show and I've had the shocks to prove it). :) :) :)

They're simple enough to fault find on so long as you're fairly savvy with electric....and bear in mind these will be running at the full 240v. Bear in mind as well that they can also be a fire hazard if you get it wrong (I've got some of the partitions in my screens which were charcoal when I took them over).

Firstly, I doubt the PAT stickers are worth the paper they're written on. I know from the PAT testers I've used they'll happily test the controller, but won't test the boxes (the "official" test so I'm told for the Bulgins is to run your finger around it and see if you can touch the contacts....not recommended).

First question - how many boxes/physical lamps are you connecting in the chain and what wattage are the lamps inside? There's a limit on the total current draw you can output per channel on the controller, and obviously a total draw across all channels.

What happens if you only plug a single screen in? Does it blow then?
As someone else has said, it could very easily be a loose wire or a short circuit as well. You'll normally find anything like that in the back of the lamp holders themselves (bear in mind they get shook around during transportation, they get hot in use....). Whenever I take on a "new" light screen the first thing I always do is re-wire it, mainly for my own piece of mind, but I've also found them with badly perished wire or even the wrong grade of wire inside in the past (most of these things are home made).

It could also be the condition of the Bulgin plugs/leads themselves (are they homemade or professionally made?)

Hopefully there's a few pointers for you, but if you need any more help, please shout.

Disclaimer - I'm not a qualified electrician, but have gained a lot of experience in the workings of these things. If you're in ANY doubt as to what you're doing....contact a qualified electrician rather than risking electrocution or fire!

[noeyfb]

Okaaaaaayyy.....Bulgin light screens, we're well and truly in my arena here (I run a 16 ft light-show and I've had the shocks to prove it). :) :) :)

They're simple enough to fault find on so long as you're fairly savvy with electric....and bear in mind these will be running at the full 240v. Bear in mind as well that they can also be a fire hazard if you get it wrong (I've got some of the partitions in my screens which were charcoal when I took them over).

Firstly, I doubt the PAT stickers are worth the paper they're written on. I know from the PAT testers I've used they'll happily test the controller, but won't test the boxes (the "official" test so I'm told for the Bulgins is to run your finger around it and see if you can touch the contacts....not recommended).

First question - how many boxes/physical lamps are you connecting in the chain and what wattage are the lamps inside? There's a limit on the total current draw you can output per channel on the controller, and obviously a total draw across all channels.

What happens if you only plug a single screen in? Does it blow then?
As someone else has said, it could very easily be a loose wire or a short circuit as well. You'll normally find anything like that in the back of the lamp holders themselves (bear in mind they get shook around during transportation, they get hot in use....). Whenever I take on a "new" light screen the first thing I always do is re-wire it, mainly for my own piece of mind, but I've also found them with badly perished wire or even the wrong grade of wire inside in the past (most of these things are home made).

It could also be the condition of the Bulgin plugs/leads themselves (are they homemade or professionally made?)

Hopefully there's a few pointers for you, but if you need any more help, please shout.

Disclaimer - I'm not a qualified electrician, but have gained a lot of experience in the workings of these things. If you're in ANY doubt as to what you're doing....contact a qualified electrician rather than risking electrocution or fire!

Hi mate 1st box 4 bulbs 1 connection everything cut out. Tried 4 different cables on 3 different boxes biggest box had 8 bulbs same thing happened. Bulbs are all 60watts. Only connecting 1 box at a time. The sound chaser lights up no problem until a light cable goes in then thats when everything shuts off.

[Imagine]

Hi mate 1st box 4 bulbs 1 connection everything cut out. Tried 4 different cables on 3 different boxes biggest box had 8 bulbs same thing happened. Bulbs are all 60watts. Only connecting 1 box at a time. The sound chaser lights up no problem until a light cable goes in then thats when everything shuts off.

When you say "cut out" - are we blowing fuses here or just nothing happening?
Silly question, I assume you've connected everything and THEN switched on the controller, or are you turning on the controller first and then plugging the screen into it?

I'll be honest but at the moment it's sounding like an issue with the controller itself.

BTW - 60w are big lamps for light screens. I run mine at 35w and that's more than enough (although my smallest box contains 16 lamps :daft:)

[noeyfb]

When you say "cut out" - are we blowing fuses here or just nothing happening?
Silly question, I assume you've connected everything and THEN switched on the controller, or are you turning on the controller first and then plugging the screen into it?

I'll be honest but at the moment it's sounding like an issue with the controller itself.

BTW - 60w are big lamps for light screens. I run mine at 35w and that's more than enough (although my smallest box contains 16 lamps :daft:)

Sorry mate trips all the electricity has to be switched back on from the mains box.
Tried both ways controller on then connecting and connect everything then switching on and same thing happens. Just a bit frustrating no matter what i do its the same result. When the controller is switched on itself it lights up numbers 1-4 will flash when you tap the top of it or should it not do that with nothing connected?

[Nakatomi]

Sorry mate trips all the electricity has to be switched back on from the mains box.
Tried both ways controller on then connecting and connect everything then switching on and same thing happens. Just a bit frustrating no matter what i do its the same result. When the controller is switched on itself it lights up numbers 1-4 will flash when you tap the top of it or should it not do that with nothing connected?

Assuming you know enough about electrickery... If I were you the first thing I would do is check that the light screens are wired according to the 'standard' Bulgin pinout. The next thing I'd check is the integrity of the cabling between the controller box & the light screens.

Way back when I first started I was lent some light boxes which had, shall we say.. very interesting wiring where they'd decided to use connections that didn't conform to the accepted norm.

[noeyfb]

Assuming you know enough about electrickery... If I were you the first thing I would do is check that the light screens are wired according to the 'standard' Bulgin pinout. The next thing I'd check is the integrity of the cabling between the controller box & the light screens.

Way back when I first started I was lent some light boxes which had, shall we say.. very interesting wiring where they'd decided to use connections that didn't conform to the accepted norm.

What is the proper way they should be wired? Do you have any advice on what to look for and how it should be setup? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

[Imagine]

Assuming you know enough about electrickery... If I were you the first thing I would do is check that the light screens are wired according to the 'standard' Bulgin pinout. The next thing I'd check is the integrity of the cabling between the controller box & the light screens.

Way back when I first started I was lent some light boxes which had, shall we say.. very interesting wiring where they'd decided to use connections that didn't conform to the accepted norm.

You beat me to it! (Sorry, was watching the apprentice.....one day some of it will rub off and I'll be a millionaire :daft:)
Yes, since it's tripping out the house supply there's definitely something a bit more serious. Believe it or not, just blowing a lamp can do that, but it seems a bit strange that all the boxes are doing it.

So, yes I'd say you need to check the wiring inside


What is the proper way they should be wired? Do you have any advice on what to look for and how it should be setup? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

Possibly not how you might think is the honest answer ;)
Being as the boxes look to be home made from the photos you posted, I wouldn't necessarily expect any particular ordering in the colours of the cables (i.e. Earth in yellow/green) or even for the same colour to go to the corresponding pin in the next lamp (I've seen some real shockers!)

This should help you

18411

In fact, it's probably better that you know what's coming from the ELV plug at the controller end, and then work it from there. The correct connections at the ELV end are:
18412

[Excalibur]

What is the proper way they should be wired? Do you have any advice on what to look for and how it should be setup? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

My advice is to get a tame sparky involved. While it's true that once you know how they're wired, it's fairly simple, it's also true that all the cables are carrying a full 240v, and that kills.

If you don't know what you're dealing with, these are dangerous things. ( Says the man who for years had seven boxes connected with " widowmakers".) :o:o

For what it's worth, my money is on an earth leakage issue, or even a dead short somewhere.

[Imagine]

If you don't know what you're dealing with, these are dangerous things. ( Says the man who for years had seven boxes connected with " widowmakers".) :o:o


Mine are out for an 80s wedding in a posh venue in a couple of week's time :) (in fact, the night before BPM!)

I reckon total setup time from van to stage will be around 15 mins instead of the usual 45 for that one. And it'll be nice and warm where I'm standing for the end of October as well :)

[noeyfb]

Thanks everybody will give them a look in the morning. If all wired up properly would my next step be check all the wiring in the boxes?

[Imagine]

Thanks everybody will give them a look in the morning. If all wired up properly would my next step be check all the wiring in the boxes?

In a nutshell, yes. BUT PLEASE TAKE INTO ACCOUNT WHAT BOTH PETER AND MYSELF HAVE SAID ABOUT SAFETY!!!! (we've both been there, seen it and done it...as have many others on here).

Do you own a test meter? If not, get down to somewhere like Screwfix or Wilko's and get one, because that's going to be your best tool for the job. With the screens disconnected from the mains and the controller, check everything.

But as already mentioned....don't even attempt it if you're at all unsure of what you're doing. I really can't stress that enough. You're not dealing with modern fixtures with 5-12v running through them...this is pure 240v and it hurts at best and kills at worst.

A sparks might charge you a little bit for the pleasure, but at least it'll be safe for both you AND the public if you use them for an event. Although I rewire all of mine myself, my local house trained sparky always sense checks the finished result just for my sanity...and I've been wiring these things since they were in fashion!

[ppentertainments]

My advice is to get a tame sparky involved. While it's true that once you know how they're wired, it's fairly simple, it's also true that all the cables are carrying a full 240v, and that kills.

If you don't know what you're dealing with, these are dangerous things. ( Says the man who for years had seven boxes connected with " widowmakers".) :o:o

Sound advice from that man. Not being cheeky, but it sounds like you don't have much knowledge on electrical items, so I would advise getting an electrician to check the items over. It won't cost you the earth (no pun intended).
Sometimes the problem with these type of lights is the units are quite often fine, but the leads can be at fault - or even repaired incorrectly previously.

[Benny Smyth]

Plug 'em in, lick yer finger and touch a metal bit. If the cartoons of my youth are to be believed, instant - and fabulous - new hairstyle.

Then do as the man with the tash says and get a spark to look at them. By the sounds of it though, it'll probably end up being something that you'll leave on the wave behind.

[Imagine]

Plug 'em in, lick yer finger and touch a metal bit. If the cartoons of my youth are to be believed, instant - and fabulous - new hairstyle.

Then do as the man with the tash says and get a spark to look at them. By the sounds of it though, it'll probably end up being something that you'll leave on the wave behind.

Benny - I couldn't agree more! (although not with the licking of fingers and touching one of the 8 pins! :Naughty:)

I have a feeling these screens could turn into a labour of love and be very quickly sidelined (believe me as someone who runs a 16' setup...they're hard work and expensive to keep on the road!)

I think this is one to chat about over several bottles of Euro-fizz at the 'Plaza in a couple of weeks time ;)

[Benny Smyth]

I think this is one to chat about over several bottles of Euro-fizz at the 'Plaza in a couple of weeks time ;)

Are you coming onto me?

[yourdj]

Just buy an equinox screen and 2 LED par cans! Who uses light panels in this day and age anyway. :)

[Imagine]

Just buy an equinox screen and 2 LED par cans! Who uses light panels in this day and age anyway. :)

<cough>
18413

It's the future, don't ya know ;)

Actually, mine are going out more and more at the moment. People are asking for them and I'm not about to turn them away :)


Are you coming onto me?
In your dreams Benny boy! :eek:

[Excalibur]

I think this is one to chat about over several bottles of Euro-fizz at the 'Plaza in a couple of weeks time ;)
Wouldn't have minded a chat with one or two folk myself, but looking unlikely. :(


Are you coming onto me?
You're not that special Benny. Two small sherries, and he'll chat up anyone. :)




It's the future, don't ya know ;)

Actually, mine are going out more and more at the moment. People are asking for them and I'm not about to turn them away :)



I still miss mine. :cry:

[noeyfb]

Update found the problem. I simply changed the plug on the controller then everything worked perfect. Thanks again for all the advice

[Excalibur]

Update found the problem. I simply changed the plug on the controller then everything worked perfect. Thanks again for all the advice

I'm surprised by the solution, and also the reason for trying it, but glad they're working. I must however point out that from the pictures we've seen, they are dangerous to use, because they will be connected by cables with exposed live pins, carrying a full 240 volts, the " widowmakers " I spoke of. Been there, done that, when we knew no better, and cared even less.:o

Times change, and safety and best practice are paramount. I suggest very strongly that these units are checked by a qualified person, and made safe by the ( fairly ) simple expedient of changing a few plugs to sockets.